644 Underappreciated Paris Museums; Many Lives of the Louvre; Cote D'Azur

Get ideas for visiting some of Paris' unique, under-appreciated small museums, as well as tips for tackling its massive grande dame, the Louvre — and an author's insights into the former palace's remarkable history. And French tour guides tell us what they love best about the cities along the Mediterranean's sparkling Cote d'Azur.