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The Testpiece Podcast

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The Testpiece Podcast

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk.Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits and the secret glue he uses for everything skin related.Links to things mentioned: Ethan Salvo on Luci...

190 episodes•0 subscribers•0 Total Listens

Episode Playlist

50 episodes

#141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution

Feb 14, 2025•—

#141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution

#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers

Feb 17, 2025•—

#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers

#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever

Feb 24, 2025•—

#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever

#144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale

Mar 3, 2025•—

#144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale

#145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’

Mar 7, 2025•—

#145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’

#146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c

Mar 10, 2025•—

#146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c

#147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA’s Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This

Mar 17, 2025•—

#147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA’s Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This

#148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?!

Mar 21, 2025•—

#148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?!

#149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight

Mar 24, 2025•—

#149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight

#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World

Mar 28, 2025•—

#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World

#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment

Mar 31, 2025•—

#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment

#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!

Apr 7, 2025•—

#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!

#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering

Apr 14, 2025•—

#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering

#154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?

Apr 21, 2025•—

#154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?

#155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?!

Apr 25, 2025•—

#155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?!

#156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip

Apr 28, 2025•—

#156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip

#157 Josh Lowell — World's Best Climbing Films, Reel Rock 19, What Made Sharma Different, Climbing Is ‘Badass’, and How To Make Something Great

May 5, 2025•—

#157 Josh Lowell — World's Best Climbing Films, Reel Rock 19, What Made Sharma Different, Climbing Is ‘Badass’, and How To Make Something Great

#158 Dave MacLeod — You Can’t Avoid Risk, The Right Definition Of Bold Climbing, Low Confidence Is Good, and Why Being Great Means Being Different

May 12, 2025•—

#158 Dave MacLeod — You Can’t Avoid Risk, The Right Definition Of Bold Climbing, Low Confidence Is Good, and Why Being Great Means Being Different

#159 Dave MacLeod [Part 2] — Be The Lightest Possible FOREVER, How To Peak For a Specific Moment, and Why Cutting Calories Is The Last Resort

May 19, 2025•—

#159 Dave MacLeod [Part 2] — Be The Lightest Possible FOREVER, How To Peak For a Specific Moment, and Why Cutting Calories Is The Last Resort

#160 Hamish McArthur — Going ‘Invisible Man’, Sending Megatron And NOMTW, and What Achieving Your Potential Actually Means

May 26, 2025•—

#160 Hamish McArthur — Going ‘Invisible Man’, Sending Megatron And NOMTW, and What Achieving Your Potential Actually Means

#161 ‘Good Temps’ — A New Recurring Group Podcast with Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley

Jun 2, 2025•—

#161 ‘Good Temps’ — A New Recurring Group Podcast with Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley

#162 Jonathan Siegrist — What It Takes To Send At Your Limit, Different Climbing Cultures Around The World, and Having Longevity As a Professional In Climbing

Jun 9, 2025•—

#162 Jonathan Siegrist — What It Takes To Send At Your Limit, Different Climbing Cultures Around The World, and Having Longevity As a Professional In Climbing

#163 Michael Rosato — Board Lords, Board Culture, Standardized Vs Spray, The Future Of Boards, and Board Grading

Jun 16, 2025•—

#163 Michael Rosato — Board Lords, Board Culture, Standardized Vs Spray, The Future Of Boards, and Board Grading

#164 Obe Carrion — “We Are Bouldering”, What Winning Comps Used To Represent, 'Rock Star' Parties, and Designing Dope Gear

Jun 23, 2025•—

#164 Obe Carrion — “We Are Bouldering”, What Winning Comps Used To Represent, 'Rock Star' Parties, and Designing Dope Gear

#165 ‘Good Temps’ 2 — Brooke Does Excalibur [15c], Ondra Flashes E11, Mt. Doom’s [V17] Aesthetic’s Matter, Actual Progression Of The Sport, and ‘First Dab Ascent’

Jun 30, 2025•—

#165 ‘Good Temps’ 2 — Brooke Does Excalibur [15c], Ondra Flashes E11, Mt. Doom’s [V17] Aesthetic’s Matter, Actual Progression Of The Sport, and ‘First Dab Ascent’

#166 Wheel Rock — Noah Does Two V17’s, Benn Explains The V17 Grade, Turning Pro, and Execution At The Highest Level

Jul 7, 2025•—

#166 Wheel Rock — Noah Does Two V17’s, Benn Explains The V17 Grade, Turning Pro, and Execution At The Highest Level

#167 ‘Board Talk’ — A Recurring Board Focused Podcast With Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley

Jul 14, 2025•—

#167 ‘Board Talk’ — A Recurring Board Focused Podcast With Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley

#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens

Jul 21, 2025•—

#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens

#169 ‘Good Temps' 3 — WC Season In Full Swing, World’s First 8C Flash?!, Pushing It To The Limit, and Rocklands FOMO

Jul 28, 2025•—

#169 ‘Good Temps' 3 — WC Season In Full Swing, World’s First 8C Flash?!, Pushing It To The Limit, and Rocklands FOMO

#170 Ravioli Biceps — How Board Climbing Transfers To Outdoors, The Magic Of Completionism, Overcoming Stopper Moves and Zooming In On Movement

Aug 4, 2025•—

#170 Ravioli Biceps — How Board Climbing Transfers To Outdoors, The Magic Of Completionism, Overcoming Stopper Moves and Zooming In On Movement

Board Talk #2 — The Best Board Session Ever, 2024 MoonBoard Deep Dive, and What Makes A Board Problem ‘Good’

Aug 11, 2025•—

Board Talk #2 — The Best Board Session Ever, 2024 MoonBoard Deep Dive, and What Makes A Board Problem ‘Good’

#171 Alex Honnold — The Lack Of Danger In The Modern Era, Being Unencumbered By What-Ifs, and Choosing A Life Based On Psyche

Aug 18, 2025•—

#171 Alex Honnold — The Lack Of Danger In The Modern Era, Being Unencumbered By What-Ifs, and Choosing A Life Based On Psyche

Good Temps #4 — Another V17 By Bosi, Insane Squamish Sends, Rogora Tick’s Gorges Du Loup, The Era Of Difficulty and “Rules Of The Game”

Aug 25, 2025•—

Good Temps #4 — Another V17 By Bosi, Insane Squamish Sends, Rogora Tick’s Gorges Du Loup, The Era Of Difficulty and “Rules Of The Game”

#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach

Sep 1, 2025•—

#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach

Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge

Sep 8, 2025•—

Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge

#173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa

Sep 15, 2025•—

#173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa

Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money

Sep 22, 2025•—

Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money

#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100

Sep 29, 2025•—

#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100

Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102

Oct 6, 2025•—

Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102

#175 Mark Heal — The 4 Steps For Sending Any Grade, Tactics You MUST Know, How To Train For Outdoors and Designing The Best Gym In America

Oct 13, 2025•—

#175 Mark Heal — The 4 Steps For Sending Any Grade, Tactics You MUST Know, How To Train For Outdoors and Designing The Best Gym In America

Good Temps #6 — Cold Sticky Granite, World Championships, The Latest Hard Sends In Bouldering/Sport/Alpine(!), and A New Ethics Segment

Oct 20, 2025•—

Good Temps #6 — Cold Sticky Granite, World Championships, The Latest Hard Sends In Bouldering/Sport/Alpine(!), and A New Ethics Segment

#176 Sierra Blair — "Boards Or Death", Transitioning From WC’s To Outdoors, The Longterm Training Formula, and Why She Loves The Mini-MoonBoard

Oct 27, 2025•—

#176 Sierra Blair — "Boards Or Death", Transitioning From WC’s To Outdoors, The Longterm Training Formula, and Why She Loves The Mini-MoonBoard

Board Talk #5 — Benn Wheeler Guest Appearance, Kilter Deep Dive, V15’s On Boards Are Officially Here, and Condition Dependent Boards

Nov 3, 2025•—

Board Talk #5 — Benn Wheeler Guest Appearance, Kilter Deep Dive, V15’s On Boards Are Officially Here, and Condition Dependent Boards

#177 Tyler Willcutt — The ‘X’ Factor, Agent For The Best Of The Best, Where Pro’s Make The Most Money, and How The Climbing Industry Compares To Others

Nov 10, 2025•—

#177 Tyler Willcutt — The ‘X’ Factor, Agent For The Best Of The Best, Where Pro’s Make The Most Money, and How The Climbing Industry Compares To Others

Good Temps #7 — Arrival Of The Birds [V17] By Sean, Janja Climbs Everything, Current State Of The Gym Industry, and Ethical Limits Of Climbing Equipment

Nov 17, 2025•—

Good Temps #7 — Arrival Of The Birds [V17] By Sean, Janja Climbs Everything, Current State Of The Gym Industry, and Ethical Limits Of Climbing Equipment

#178 Ollie Torr — Olympians Train Like This, How Climbing Technique Actually Progresses, The Future Of Video Analysis, and What Lattice Is Doing With The Best Data Set In Climbing

Nov 24, 2025•—

#178 Ollie Torr — Olympians Train Like This, How Climbing Technique Actually Progresses, The Future Of Video Analysis, and What Lattice Is Doing With The Best Data Set In Climbing

Good Temps 'Emergency Pod' — V18?!

Nov 26, 2025•—

Good Temps 'Emergency Pod' — V18?!

Board Talk #6 — BoD [V17] Is A Board Climb, The Sisu Proj, Noah Wheeler Destroys The School Room, and Does Board Climbing Cause Injuries?

Dec 1, 2025•—

Board Talk #6 — BoD [V17] Is A Board Climb, The Sisu Proj, Noah Wheeler Destroys The School Room, and Does Board Climbing Cause Injuries?

#179 Annie Sanders — 1st US Woman To Win Bouldering And Lead WC’s, Comp Style Vs Her Style, and Where To Focus While Competing

Dec 8, 2025•—

#179 Annie Sanders — 1st US Woman To Win Bouldering And Lead WC’s, Comp Style Vs Her Style, and Where To Focus While Competing

Good Temps #8 — Ondra Flashes V15, The Future Of Climbing Holds, Granite Addicts, and The Ethics Of Flashing

Dec 15, 2025•—

Good Temps #8 — Ondra Flashes V15, The Future Of Climbing Holds, Granite Addicts, and The Ethics Of Flashing

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