By Desert Ways to Baghdad

By Desert Ways to Baghdad

by Louisa Jebb Wilkins

24 chapters7h 6mEnglish1909

About this book

Every age witnesses the birth of some great soul. Sometimes events bring these people to the attention of the world. More often than not, they alter the lives around them, then pass on quietly. Such a soul belonged to the author of this cherished book. There was nothing in Louisa Jebb's comfortable Victorian youth to indicate she would one day take to the saddle and pen one of the most eloquent equestrian travel books ever written. Yet in the early years of the 20th century, Jebb set out with a female companion to cross the Turkish Empire on horseback. To say they were unprepared to become Long Riders would be an understatement. Neither of them could speak the local language. Furthermore, both wore cumbersome full-length skirts and rode side-saddles. They were, in a word, enthusiastic amateurs who believed courage and common sense would see them through. Remarkably, it did. Having hired a picturesque guide and reliable horses, they set out to explore the secret corners of the Sultan's empire. What they discovered were guarded harems and regal Pashas, fabled rivers and a desert world of intense beauty. If Jebb rode into Turkey expecting to find adventure, she found it. Yet she discovered something else - nomadic freedom. It is her personal observations about this subject that set "By Desert Ways to Baghdad and Damascus" apart from other equestrian travel books. "In the untravelled parts of the East you reign supreme, there is no need to go about securely chained to a gold watch. Ignore Time, and he is your servant," she observed wisely. Sadly, revolution and death soon swept across this fabled land, wiping away the kingdom of the Turkish Caliphs and laying the foundations for the grief which enshrouds this unhappy part of the world today. Upon her return to "civilization" the author lamented about what she had found, then lost. "Last night we were dirty, isolated and free, tonight we are clean, sociable and trammelled. Last night the setting sun's final message was burnt into us. Tonight the sunset passed unheeded as we sit imprisoned and oppressed by the confining walls of Damascus Palace Hotel. We are no longer princesses whose hands are kissed. We are now judged by the cost of our raiment." Few books contain as many great abiding truths as this one does. - Summary by Goodreads

Chapters (23)

1Disentanglement
772
2Brigandage
895
3Social Intercourse
600
4The Dawn of the Baghdad Railway
2333
5In the Taurus
1717
6Royal Progress
1432
7Harran: A Digression into the Land of Abraham
1171
8That Unblessed Land, Mesopotamia
1499
9Afloat
583
10Held Up
1537
11A Reception and a Dance
694
12An Encounter with an Englishman
769
13The Creed of the Koran
877
14The Evil One
933
15Arab Hospitality
855
16A Storm and a Lull
905
17An Encounter with Fanatics
654
18The End of the Raft
551
19Babylon
1144
20The Sound of the Desert
1147
21Palmyra
664
22An Armenian and a Turk
2151
23Retrospective
1077

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment