Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study , exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalie Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:03) – Keith’s background (00:10:05) – Natalie’s background (00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study (00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs” (00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective (00:22:41) – Exciting new studies (00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”? (00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol? (00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness (00:57:00) – Recommendations (01:06:03) – A cautionary tale (01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics (01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity? (01:15:42) – Summary (01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies (01:19:25) – Wrap up
