This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Have been listening to your podcast for awhile now and the more I listen to more questions come to mind. Here is my current one for a walnut waterfall bench I’m working on. The dimensions are approx 58”L x 18”W x 16”D. How should I join a shelf to this bench where the grain flows continuously from the legs up through the bench top? The shelf will also be a glued up panel with the grain running the same direction as the bench top. If I attach the shelf to the inside faces of the legs using a mortise and tenon joint, do I need to account for wood movement? The legs, benchtop, and shelf are all 1.75” thick. I would assume that given they’re all the same thickness and technically the wood grain is in the same direction as the legs, just perpendicular, it would expand and contract together, and I could just glue the tenon. That said I don’t want to guess and hearing Guy talk about furniture exploding has me concerned. If wood movement is a concern then what’s the correct way to account for this movement? Should it be treated like a breadboard end with dowels through the tenons, installed through the bottom of the legs (the shelf sits 2 inches off the ground)? Or would it be better, and stronger, to use floating tenons/Dominos for this joint instead and just not glue the outside dominos and cut them loose to account for the expansion and contraction while gluing the center domino(s)? Thanks, Chayse Bell Thanks for the great podcast, I discovered your channel about a month ago and now listen all the time traveling to and from work. I've been woodworking a little over a year now and currently working on a dining table made from ash and have picked up all sorts of pearls that have helped with the glue up, apron design, finishing, etc., so thank you for all that. This question is directed to Brian, as he has mentioned that his shop is in his basement. I currently work out of my two car garage that I share with my wife's car. We just built the house in 2024 and I'm kicking myself that I didn't insulate the garage. These cold Northern Indiana days are making working in the garage pretty uncomfortable. I know I could just insulate it, but HVAC isn't attached to the garage either so to make it truly comfortable would be a big job/cost. So, Brian, can you share a little more about the layout/design of your basement shop? E.g. was it a room that existed that you converted into the shop or you framed the room specifically for a shop? How do you take extra precautions to make sure your family isn't affected by dust, as this is my primary concern. Obviously, I know of dust collection and dust filters, but it still concerns me to think I'd be working in the basement. Do you have anything you wish you did differently? We have an unfinished basement that is very open, so the sky would be the limit for me in the future before we finish it. Thanks, Evan Guys Questions: Somewhat recently I made a gift for my wife using White oak. I had predetermined that for a finishing schedule I wanted to first apply Danish oil, then seal it with shellac, and minwax performance series varnish for a top coat. I ran into an issue when I began to finish the piece. Not knowing a thing about wood porosity, I liberally applied watco Danish oil, and as a result I had a big problem with seepage. Now, my research had cautioned me that I would need to keep checking on the piece periodically for the next several hours after application to wipe up any seepage that came up. Even so, you this went on for so long that it became an issue. Two full days after application I was still wiping up seepage. I would wipe the piece down before bed at night, and when I'd check it in the morning there would be spots on the surface that took a considerable amount of effort to buff out. I couldn't keep up with it, and after a few days the surface was covered in spots, which meant that I had to start over. As I mentioned previously, I could not find any information online regarding how to deal with this problem. Just to see what would happen, I decided to try aiming a heat gun at the work piece after it had been drying for a couple of hours. This worked phenomenally, and I could not have been more thrilled. Of course the heat didn't dry out the wood any faster or anything, but what it did do was vastly accelerate the seepage process. The oil was rapidly drawn up to the surface of the wood, where I could wipe it away, and after treating both sides in this manner for a total of perhaps 10 minutes it seemed that all of the excess oil had been drawn out. I wiped the work piece down and had no more issues. Of, like with any application involving a heat gun, I had to keep it moving, otherwise it would start to bake the spots of oil onto the surface. Anyways, I just thought this was a neat trick that might come in handy with oil finishes if seepage is ever a huge issue. I hope you guys found this interesting. Zach Owens Hello from Chico, Ca
